Wine Review: 2011 Chardonnay

Dunne on Wine: The lure of white wine as summer lingers

Trione wine review from Mike Dunne: Trione Vineyards & Winery 2011 Russian River Valley River Road Ranch Chardonnay ($37): This was elected the best overall chardonnay at the San Francisco International Wine Competition in June, a surprise given its wiry structure, uncomplicated fruit and restrained oak. Maybe the sun really is setting on the era of overblown chardonnay smacking more of butterscotch and lumber than fruit. In contrast, this is all snappy apple and zesty acidity, putting “refreshing” back into the definition of chardonnay.